The South America Chronicles - Dos

Brad and I are wyling away an afternoon in Quito so time for an update....

First with the good stuff. The 4 days we had at the Black Sheep Inn were awesome. The place is situated in the middle of nowhere. If World War 3 broke out, I am sure we would have been the last to know. Getting there was interesting. It took two bus rides, the second being along a dirt track, in some amazing scenery, and with a lot of locals. The bus was crammed, not helped by our packs in the aisle. And just when you thought it would be emptying out, on would come a whole set of locals, with sacks of all sorts of things - from potatoes to (live) chickens. They were even riding on the roof at some stage. After 4 hours of this we finally arrived at the serenity of BSI.

The BSI is all about sustainability and environmentalism, and they do it pretty well. The views across the very seismic-inflicted countryside were brilliant, and the vegetarian food wasn´t far off as well. We spent the three days getting out and about and hiking, including the Quilotoa Crater Lake. There were lots of interesting guests to meet up with at the end of the day, also good for collecting tips about travelling through South America. Even with the hiking, it was all very relaxing, and we all agreed we could easily have spent more time there.

But we had other things to do - for the boys, we were due to climb Mt Cotopaxi (5897m)and the girls were going on a 3 day horseriding trek. We are still waiting for thr girls to return this afternoon, so I can´t tell you much about that, but the attempted climb was last night/this morning, so I can fill you in on all that drama!

It all started yesterday morning, when we were picked up and driven up to the refuge on the mountain, which is already at 4800m. Now you might be asking what acclimitisation we had been doing for this. Not a lot (the BSI was at 3200m and the Crater Lake we hiked from it just short of 4000m) - but the climbing guide company we had booked with assuredus that that should be enough. However, there was still plenty of trepidation on our part.

Though it all started fairly well, with our practise with the crampons and ice picks on the nearby glacier at 5000m going well. But it was only after this that Brad started to ge a very painful headache at the back of his neck. He did his best to ride it out and got up at the appointed time of midnight, but ultimately made the wise decision that attempting the climb wouldn´t be a great idea in his condition. So this left me to slog it out with the othr 4 climbers who had booked in with our guide company. And, at this stage I felt pretty good, not feeling any effects of the altitude. But is wasn´t the altitude that finally got me....

It might have been the meat platter the previous day, of the meal cooked up for us at the refuge, but early on in the climb I realised something wasn´t quite right ´down there´. And with my history with the D-word, this wasn´t a good sign. However, along with my guide and my new partner (Matt), we started up the mountain at 1am, making good time - but damn it was hard. Despite it being a beautiful night, a clear sky full of stars and a near full moon, it was quite windy, and trying to push yourself up the mountain was really hard. Early on there was a long slog up quite a slushy slope, and it seemed that for every two (small) steps, you slid back one. But with no apparent effects of altitude sickness I was prepared to slog it out in my typical stubborn self. But it ws now that I really needed to do what you don´t want to be having to do in the dark, on a freezing cold and windy 45 degree glacier. But such things don´t care about such logic, and when nature calls it is hard to deny. Especially when it calls three times! And it was this that finally defeated me. After about 5 hours of slogging up that dan mountain, and just 150m from the top, I couldn´t go any further. I was simply drained (literally) of any energy and quite dehydrated as well. It was a pretty sad decision to make, especially as it meant my climbing partner had to turn around as well, but I couldn´t see myself making it to the top in my condition. Very frustrating, as I wasn´t beaten by the altitude, but by some dodgy meal. I even found it hard to appreciate the stunning sunrise on the descent.

Anyway, we came, we saw, but we definitely didn´t conquer. It still makes for an interesting experience, but I don´t think either of us will be hurrying back to mountainairing any time soon. It must be the hardest thing - physically and mentally - I have ever attempted. The Ironman in March might seem easy by comparison.

But don´t fear, we now have 10 days in the Galapagos to looks forward to (though also then biding farewell to Brad and Sharon and having to take on South America on our own) and then the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu. Look forward to updating you from Cuzco, Peru.

P.S. I am also 9-5 up over Brad in the Great Ecuadorian Euchre Champonships.