King of the Castle










I am sure I bragged about it to you in the run up to Christmas - and the Chateau was as good as we hoped. It was a real authentic castle - first recorded at the beginning of the 1400s. It had everything you would want from your castle - turrets with spiral staircases, tapestries, suit of armour, swords, four-poster beds, cold drafts, big fire place, and a secret room.

Chateau de la Cressonniere

It did take us a while to get there - a full day's driving, especially with some genius's theory that it would take us over 4 hours to drive to Dover (where we caught the ferry) - but it was worth it. It wasn't the warmest, but once we had the fire roaring and the red wine flowing, that wasn't a problem. We had a great time not doing much - with plenty of snacks and wine and games to play, we didn't need to. We eventually got out for a few walks around the countryside, though there wasn't much around, we were right in the middle of French farming countryside and not much else. Anna did a great job with the Christmas feast, and a couple of nights playing drinking games provided us with plenty of laughs.

The only drama came with our return home when our ferry was cancelled because of bad weather - and then the ferry we did manage to get on was delayed outside Dover port for a few hours because of gale force winds. But it couldn't dampen our spirits after such a great week.









Too hard to describe how good the Chateau was, you'll just have to click here and let the pictures do the talking.

Happy Festivus...
...for the rest of us!

And for those of you not versed in the celebration of Festivus, see here, and I look forward to hearing about your 'Feats of Strength'.

Phileas Fogg

Well, winter has finally hit us. After being very mild up until a week ago, temperatures finally dropped into single figures, and along with it came some serious fog. You've probably got some news on it, but here are a couple of pics from around Putney.

Web Album

I've been busy over the weekend and have set up a Web Album to add more pics from our travels and doings. Have added a link at the bottom of each post, but there are also other pics as well if you care to check 'em out. There is also be a link in the right-hand column.

Click Here

Oxo Tower

It was the last week before Rae & Tom left London on their return to NZ (via Africa and Australia) and they had always wanted to have dinner at Oxo Tower. Not ones to turn down an invitation - Brad, Sharon, Anna and I joined them on the Thursday night before they left. You could not fault the venue, the views are fantastic (that pic is actually taken with my mobile phone). The cooking probably wasn't quite of the standard you would expect at the prices, but the dishes were an interesting mix of ingredients and flavours. So what did me have....

Me
- Starter: Slow roast partridge, quince and autumn truffle, chesnut dressing
- Main: Roast sea bass, celeriac, saffron and vanilla, oscietra cavier
- Dessert: Raspberry panna cotta

Anna
- Starter: King scallops, roast chorizo, Oloroso caramel
- Main: Venison loin au poivre, sweet potato, tamarillo, grand veneur sauce
- Desert: Passionfruit souffle

Washed down with a couple of fine bottles of French champagne chosen by Tom - with a baileys coffee to finish. A good night out in all and a more civilised send off for Rae & Tom than eventuated that Saturday night.

Borough Pub Crawl

With the girls away for a weekend in Champagne, what better way for the boys to celebrate than go on a pub crawl - especially with the Master of pub crawls, Tom, leaving in a week. After a late Friday night playing poker and an early morning getting up to watch the League final, the boys congregated at the Borough Markets on the Saturday to take in a few of the fine pubs the area has to offer.

First stop was The Market Porter, and institution and seemingly always busy with a huge selection of cask ales - typically about 15 or so. First pint up for me, and on recommendation from the manager, was the superb Broughton Winter Fire - so smooth it was like drinking velvet. After a couple of pints to put us on our way, we made a quick pit stop through Borough Market (foodie heaven!) and picked up a delicious turkey, stuffing and cranberry roll. Our hunger for food satiated, we continued on with our other hunger - for good beer.

Next stop was The George Inn - a famous old 17th coaching inn, mentioned by Charles Dickens in one of his books and protected by the National Trust. It is a brilliant building, even better in the summer when you can take advantage of the seats outside in the courtyard. Unfortunately, the ale selection is dominated by the uninspiring Greene King range, so after a quick pint of the house George Inn Ale (actually brewed by Adnams) we went in search of our next destination - The Charles Dickens.

A funny little local this one stuck in the middle of, well, of nowhere really. If I lived close by, I could definitely see this place being a popular spot for me - 6 very different cask ales and a cosy feel. Time for a one and a half pints and see the England rugby team lose once again, and then we were back into Borough and to the Wheatsheaf (a Youngs pub) so that the boys could watch the All Black test match against Wales. ABs too good once again, and so was the draw of The Market Porter next door once again, where I had the tasty Elgoods Old Black Shuck after the game.

Now probably with more beers than is good for us someone proposed the sensible idea of getting some food. Seeing that we had had curry the other night, it seemed stupid to give up a good thing and away we went for curry #2. After another good but of spice, it was off to our last pub that I had been saving for the end of the night. Unfortunately, one of us wasn't quite up the task....

The Rake is a new pub opened up by guys who run a beer stall in the Borough Markets. Reputedly the second smallest pub in London, it is a cool little place with a great selection of beer - both on tap and in the fridge. The Crouch Vale Amarillo on handpull was too tempting to deny - being reminiscent of the great Emersons Bookbinder. But someone wasn't up to the task, as Daygs decided that sleeping against our table was a much better idea. We did our best to make sure the table didn't go over with him and also to tell others in the bar that we were out celebrating the marathon he had run that day. It looked like the evening was soon up, though not before I treated the lads to a bottle of the incomparable Schlenkerla Rauchbier.

Eventually we gave in to taking our "marathon runner" home, which probably wasn't a bad idea for all of us, and we still had plenty of time to have fun with him on the train ride home.

For some more pics, click here.

Kracking Krakow

After a string of weekends away, the last trip on the agenda was a long weekend away in Krakow - and it proved to be not the least. The trip had been organised by Jab's cousin Emilia, who had lived in Krakow for a year - so we had our own little tourist guide. And what a great job she did too.

Arriving on the Friday night, we had a bit of a temperature shock installed for us. It had been snowing in Krakow the previous couple of days and it was no different when we arrived, with the odd flurry or two that night. From London, where we had been enjoying the last gasps of summer, we cowered away from the cold wind and temperatures that couldn't have been far from zero.

First great surprise was the accommodation Emilia had organised for us all (there was 15 all up - apart from Anna, myself and Jabs, there was also a large group of Aussie friends of Emilia's who turned out to be a lot of fun - though it felt weird not to be the big group for once). We had two large apartments, all decked out inside with timber and large beams - all for the princely sum of something ridiculous like £10 per person per night. This would be the theme of the trip as Krakow is incredibly cheap. In fact, we all put in the equivalent of £87 each into a kitty for the weekend and that ended up covering our accommodation, three meals and some vodka on top of that!!

The Friday night we all went out for a traditional Polish dinner - plenty of pierogi and meat - followed by our first venture out into Krakow nightlife. Lots of the Krakow bars are below the ground in basements, and Emilia took us to a very cool one with a maze of little rooms. And being in Poland, we also had to start sampling the local tipple - and found a new favourite drink, vodka and apple juice. Of special mention was the Zubrowka vodka, otherwise know as "Bison grass" vodka, because it is infused with special grass from a region where Polish Bison graze.

Waking up the next morning a little worse for wear, we were horrified to see that Jabs had gone out and got some juice for breakfast - apple juice!! - which brought back memories of the previous night way too quickly. Being a beautiful day in Krakow - dark, cloudy and snowing - we ventured out to get "Emilia's Walking Tour" of Krakow. It is certainly a nice old Eastern European city and did well not be flattened in the Second World War. The Main Square (or Rynek) is particularly impressive - it is suppose to be the largest in Europe. However, the highlight of the day was the cool cafe in the Jewish quarter we escaped to later in the afternoon after be had been turned into popsicles looking around Wawel Castle. It was dark and arty, with old cinema seats against the walls and made a pretty good latte (in fact, we found the coffee in Krakow to be excellent). Though the hot beer (a Polish "delicacy") that Jabs had was less to my taste!

With some reluctance we had to eventually leave our cosy spot in the cafe as we were booked in for a proper feast that night with some more traditional Polish fare. And what a mighty feast it was too - a meatlover's heaven. That's me playing Robin Hood with a sword that was the skewer for which some of the meat was cooked on. And of course, when in Krakow, the night is never over after dinner and Emilia led us to another bar you would never find if you weren't a local. Another very cool place this, with art spotlighted on the walls and comfy sofas. More vodka and apple juice and another brilliant night out was to follow....

The last couple of days we pretty much had to ourselves as the others left that day to head back to London. We had planned to go out to Auschwitz Concentration Camp, but hopelessly missed the bus out there by 2 seconds. So instead we substituted in the next day's activity - the much recommended Salt Mines. And - what a disappointment that was! Still can't work out what the fuss is about. For those of you who don't know, the Salt Mines is a very old mine full of carvings and sculptures that the miners made. Some of it is actually quite impressive, like the huge chapel along with its own Last Supper (you guessed, carved out of salt). But it just really didn't do it for us, and we wished we had instead whiled away the afternoon in another cool Krakow cafe.

Though that night we were lucky enough to find a tiny local restaurant recommended by Emilia and Jabs. For the princely sum of 12 Zloty (2 pounds) we got soup and a main (I had a huge slab of schnitzel, Anna some delicious veal). It was as ridiculously good as it was ridiculously cheap.

Last day in Krakow and we were determine to pay a visit out to Auschwitz so we were up early to make the journey. Tip for anyone thinking of going - it is a long way out, especially by local bus (nearly 2 hours each way). So, embarrassingly we only had 2 hours to look around both the Auschwitz Camp and the sister Birkenau Camp (the later being the more impressive - and more chilling - and the picture comes from there). This was certainly not enough time to do it justice, but we were still pleased we made the effort.

Back into Krakow to make our flight back to London, we reflected on what a great city Krakow is to visit. In terms of the touristy things, I would have to say there isn't really anything spectacular, especially if you have been to Eastern European cities before. What we were really impressed with was the overall vibe around Krakow and the cool cafes and bars that you can spend you time taking in that vibe. I could have happily gone back there the next weekend and spent it sitting back in aforementioned cafes and bars with either a coffee or vodka-apple sitting in front of me. A kracking weekend it would be.

For some more pics, click here.

DDD

The first D stands for Devon - where we spent the last weekend of daylights savings over here. Anna and Rae had tripped down there on the Thursday, staying in Exmoor National Park. Myself, Rich and Titch journeyed down there by train to meet them on Friday night after work. A long train trip, but made all the more easy by a couple bottles of wine and a few snacks. The girls picked us up at Exeter and drove us down to Dartmouth where we were staying for the night. And the reason for Dartmouth? The second D being for delicious....

The New Angel - the Michelin-starred restaurant under chef John Burton-Race. And delicious it certainly was! For entree, I had a scallop salad (suspect #1), as did Anna and Rich, while Titch and Rae had the quail. For main, I had the pork (suspect #2) which came with some delicious black pudding, while steak, lamb and venison were also at our table. All were very well cooked and extremely tasty. With not much room in our bellies, we all decided to have dessert of course, though Titch's cheese "plate" could have fed us and a small nation on its own. Being very well fed, the staff finally booted us out and feeling very well pleased with ourselves we warbled the 100 metres or so to our B&B.

The next morning we checked out the picturesque Dartmouth and took the "most attractive little boat ride in all of Britain" - or so the sign said. And the boat ride wasn't too bad at all, if the 'captain' was just a little grumpy. Having to drop Rae off at Plymouth station to get the train pack to London, we had time for a drive along the coast and a quick lunch (suspect #3 - hazelnut milkshake). After dropping Rae off, we headed into the Dartmoor National Park and into the fog. This made for a very surreal backdrop and taking a walk up to Hound's Tor you could feel why Arthur Conan Doyle would have set the Hounds of the Basketvilles here. (Was also good for my album-cover shot - see below).

Continuing the culinary theme of our weekend, we ate that night at the Sandy Park Inn, winner of Best Country Pub at the Devon Food and Drink Awards. And we weren't disappointed. A hilarious night was had with some funny conversation and Rich giving a fine example of how to dig yourself in a deep hole - caramello! The only downside was that the third D had started to take its toll on me - and that is all I am going to say about that.

The next day we went for another little drive around the Dartmoors - with the weather being a lot clearer the views were better, but didn't have the same mystery of the day before. With vows of only eating salad and soup for the rest of the week, we headed back to London with contented (and bloated) bellies.







For some more pics, click here.

Belgium - merci beaucoup!

What a great 5 days in Belgium - this blog is as long as the holiday was good! To be more exact, we visited the (less known) French-speaking Wallonia, the southern half of Belgium very different to the Dutch-speaking northern half. With the hilly and scenic terrain of the Ardennes, excellent cuisine, and many interesting farmhouse breweries - it produced an excellent trip.

Day One

Started with me "working" from home and catching the Eurostar at midday (which is so much easier than flying) to Lille, which is right on the border with Belgium. We collected out "mini" car (there wasn't much to it) and headed across the border into the Hainaut region and directly to the first brewery stops (no mucking about here - I had a list as long as my arm I wanted to visit over the next five days).

First stop was the Geant brewery in Irchonwelz. I knew it would be closed (only open for visits in the summer), but it has been built within a ruin of an old castle and I wanted to check it out. Looked pretty cool. But I also wanted to get stuck into my first beer, so it was off down the road to the Dupont brewery, on the outskirts of the village of Tourpes. Dupont is a fairly well-established farmhouse brewery, but is still contained within the original old farm buildings. We arrived at the end of the day, so not much was going on, but I still managed to sneak a look at their impressive equipment. Literally across the road is the brewery tap, a very small rustic beer café, where we joined a couple of locals and the brewery workers at the end of their day. I was able to have their famous Saison Dupont on draught, a pretty good beer to start off the trip and it certainly didn't disappointed (I really liked the peppery finish). In fact, all the beers we tasted there were good, the Moinette Blonde probably being the pick.

Off then to the nearby town of Pipiax, a drive by of the Vapeur brewery (which was closed), which is supposed to be the only brewery in the world still run on steam power. On then to the elusive (a few laps of the town had to be made) Dubuisson brewery, who brew their Bush beers, which around most of the world are under the Scaldis label because nasty big-brewer Anheuser-Busch stopped them from using their the name Bush as it was too close to theirs ("boo", "hiss"). But thankfully that is as far as the comparison goes. They specialise in very strong beers, the main brew being the 12% Bush Ambrée, which was absolutely superb and one of the beers of the trip - complex and malty, the perfect desert. Unfortunately, their food wasn't up to the same standard (our only non-brilliant meal of the trip). But we did have a chance meeting with the manager (somehow he picked up from our French that we weren't local!), which turned out to be a little bonus. We chatted to him for a little while (for which half the time he thought we were American as apparently our "New Zealand" sounded like "Louisiana") and he even ended up buying us a beer. He continuely tried to apologise for his English, which you often get when you are travelling around, which is funny when our grasp of their own language (especially mine I must admit) is so rudimentary. Before we left we also purchased a 750ml bottle of the 13% Bush Prestige to takeaway (which I am really looking forward to), when he also gave us a couple of the branded glasses to drink it from - so it was a great visit.

A few fine Belgian beers under my belt already, we headed back into the city of Tournai and found our hotel for the night and went in search of a beer café recommended in my Belgium Good Beer Guide (otherwise known as the Bible). Passing several unappealing pubs along the river, with people inside drinking equally unappealing beer, we found our destination in a more quieter location further along the river. The Cave à Biére was a great little place set in an old cask store on the bank of the river with a beer list of about 60. Had a couple of excellent beers to finish the night and with cries from the owner asking us to come back again (I couldn't quite explain to him why we couldn't), we wandered back along the river to our hotel.







Day Two

Getting up in the morning, we went for a wander around to check Tournai out - unfortunately there isn't that much to see (despite its history of being the first French capital). This is quite typical of Belgium as a whole and is the consequence of it being somewhat flattened in both the first and second World Wars. However we still managed to stumble across a cute little café where we had good coffee and pain au chocolats the size of footballs.

Heading off in search of some more farmhouse breweries, we had no luck in finding the Abbaye des Rocs brewery around Montignies-sur-Roc (though fortunately I was able to find their beers in a store later on). So we proceeded on, driving through a clutch of small hamlets close to the French border. This time we did find the Blaugies brewery and their brewery tap Fourquets. Here we stopped for lunch (and some of the brewery produce of course) and had our first experience of the formidable Wallonian grill. To be a common theme of many of our visits to these remote breweries, we were the only ones there (though a local came in later), and we both ordered steak, though not quite sure what kind of cut we were ordering. That's when they fired up the charcoal grill that was in the middle of the restaurant and proceeded to bring out a couple of huge pieces of meat. But that wasn't all, after the steak was slowly cooked over the grill, it was finally accompanied by a massive bowl of chips, the biggest baked potato you will ever see (obviously local), salad, and some home-made baked bread. It was some feast, and the steak was beautiful, having a smoked taste from the grill. After doing our best (you know how much I like the challenge of a clean plate), we finally rolled ourselves out and back into the car. Our little car groaning under the strain, we set off in search of Chimay.

Having read that the actual abbey itself wasn't that inspiring, we bypassed that and went to the abbey's own beer café, the Auberge de Poteautpré. Having sampled all the Chimay beers many times before, I had one goal for this visit, to try the Chimay Doree, which is a lower strength version (4.8%) brewed for the monks and only available at this café. Suititabtly satisfied - it was quite good - off we went to start the most scenic route of our holiday, along the Semois valley.

Of course, the weather had other ideas, so instead of having stunning views of the valley, we had a lot of stunning views of clouds. But the skies cleared enough times to show us some impressive views of the river, which meanders through the hills and continuously loops back onto itself. Entering the wooded Ardennes region was also pleasant, with the onset of Autumn bringing out some brilliant colours in the trees.

Our final destination was towards the end of the valley to the town of Bouillon, where the town is situated in one of the loops of the river with its fortified castle perched on top of the hill situated within the loop. Our hotel was quite impressive and we decided to book in for the restaurant for dinner, but not after a wander around the town and a couple of beers in a beer café the other side of the river. The restaurant ended up being somewhat flasher than we were expecting and I must have been the only person in there wearing jeans and t-shirt. The menu was also pricey, but was well worth it. The pick of the dishes, believe it or not, was my pumpkin soup with ham and croutons. It was the best soup I have ever had and I had to put up my best defence to ward off Anna from stealing it all. The mains - I had rabbit on fresh tagliatelle and Anna had roasted pheasant - were also superb, and for the second time that day our chairs were sitting much further out from the table than when we arrived.














Day Three

The morning started with yet another great meal, the breakfast buffet at our hotel being superb - an endless supply of pain au chocolats is a dangerous thing! Being a sunny day, we doubled back a little along the river to check out some of the views we missed earlier, and then it was onwards to one of the highlights of the trip, the Orval Abbey. Though you are not allowed into the new Abbey, you can work around the ruins of the old one and the whole structure is quite impressive. We also visited the abbey's bar, the Ange Gardien, where once again you can try the beer brewed only for the monks - the 3.5% Petit Orval. I was very impressed with this - lucky monks - and also their cheese, which we also sampled along with a subsequent glass of the real thing. Orval is very different to the other Trappist beers, being more hoppy and bitter, and will never be in better condition only 200 metres from where they brew the stuff.

Continuing through the Ardennes, our next destination was a drive across the border into Luxembourg, but not before another stop for a tasting at another micro-brewery, and the Rulles Blode was well worth the stop. With Luxembourg so close, it seemed like a good idea for a visit. And the guide book certainly made it sound like it - calling it the most impressive capital in Europe. Considering the likes of Paris and Rome, this was a hefty claim - and one I have to say, it fell well short of it. Sure, geographically it is impressive, with a narrow valley running through the centre. However, apart from that, there is not much to inspire - not much more is required than a good walk around the city (which probably wasn't a bad thing after all our culinary delights). Though our trip did answer one thing for us, we had wondered why we hadn't seen many cars in our travels - the answer being that they were all driving around Luxembourg!

After escaping the only traffic we met on the whole trip, we headed back towards the safety of good beer and food in Belgium. We passed through the town of Bastogne, famous for the being the centre of the Battle of the Bulge in WW2, with an old American tank situated in the main square and lots of tacky touristy stuff obviously aimed at American visitors. We were staying in a small town at the beginning of the Ourthe valley. We had tried to book into a hotel we found a recommendation for, but it was full and said they could book us into their "sister" hotel. Well, if this place was its "sister", it is the illegitimate one you only acknowledge when you really have to.

Nevermind. Dumping our bags, we headed off in search of the Achouffe brewery for dinner. This is another farmhouse brewery that has done very well, as evident by the impressive brewery kit I checked out through the window. The restaurant out the back was a great little place and we enjoyed yet another meaty treat from the grill.

Back at the hotel, I was about to embark on one of my insomniac nights and spent the whole night doing a careful study of the ceiling of room 115.







Day Four

A welcome surprise in the morning, our 3-star hotel had a 5-star breakfast. So with plenty of coffee and pain au chocolats (again), I was ready to get back on our Belgian trail. First route was through the Ourthe valley, which would be more picturesque if it wasn't for the Belgians' incomprehensible penchant to fill any riverside flat with as many mobile holiday homes as they can. Why you would want to stay in these aluminium prefabs I have no idea, but obviously, from the number of them, the Belgians (and the French and Germans, as well, probably) flock to them.

Fortunately, our first destination was very picturesque, the small town of Durbuy (apparently the smallest town in the world until a few years ago). This place was very quaint with small cobble medieval streets and, despite obviously being a tourist spot, hadn't been spoiled because of it. It was also the location of the very-micro-brewery, Ferme au Chene, where I was able to try their elusive (and very good) Marckloff beer.

From there down to the strange village of Fantome and its even stranger farmhouse brewery. Once again it was just us in the eccentric little beer café, where we had the Saison. It was nearly ciderish at the front of the mouth, but more malty in the finish - an interesting beer for an interesting place.

The last beer stop for the day was the Saint Monon brewery outside the small village of Ambly. This was real farmhouse stuff - we were fortunate enough to bump into the farmer/brewer outside his little tasting room when we arrived so he could let us in. Dressed in overalls and smelling of farm-stuff, he was obviously on the job at the time. He got us a couple of bottles of his brew and left us to it and went off to do farm-stuff. He checked back on us every now and then, allowing me to order another bottle and also to serve another group which had turned up. This was just the type of thing I wanted to experience when I thought of doing this trip - the craft side of brewing in the home of beer.

From there we travelled up to the city of Namur to find accommodation for the one night we hadn't booked. And what a great place we found, an old tannery converted into a hotel that doesn't have one room priced the same - from a dorm-type room up to a penthouse for 230 euros a night. The place is a maze of niches and staircases and we got a great multi-levelled room for 80 euros. We also booked ourselves into their restaurant, which looked good.

There wasn't much to see in Namur except for the old citadel which you can't miss, though there was a beer café that was highly recommended in the Bible. The Chapitré is tucked in behind the back of a cathedral and is a real traditional Belgian beer café with a list of over 100 beers. The waiter was ever patient with me as I read the menu twice before making my selection and referencing the Bible to make sure I made the right selection - the Witkap Stimulo and the 10% Kapittel ABT were certainly that. After a couple of heady drinks, we returned to the hotel for dinner and were once again stunned. I know the French are suppose to be the kings of cooking, but I think the French Belgians are even better. Anna had a delicious scallop entrée that was (nearly) the equal of the pumpkin soup, and the roasted duck and venison mains were also superb. Anna also had a crème brulee she claims is the best she has ever had, I was keeping room for my own desert - a trip back to Chapitré for a night cap, the superb Sint Bernadis ABT 12°, served in a cognac-style glass.








Day Five

Our last day, and time to start the diet! Just a café breakfast, but still a very good coffee and pastry. Our Eurostar train was not due to leave Lille until 7.30pm so we still had the whole day left. The first part was spent driving down another picturesque river valley, this time the Meuse. It was then time to start our drive back across Belgium towards Lille, but with enough time to make once last brewery stop.

This was the very remote Ellezelloise farmhouse brewery, where we had to disturb the brewer/farmer from cleaning the brewing equipment to serve us. I had the excellent Hercule Stout out on the garden terrace where the fact that we were out in the middle of the farm was quite obvious. It was the perfect beer to finish the trip on.







So a great trip through a part of Belgium not usually visited. Great beer and fine food, I would recommend it to anyone.

For some more pics, click here.

Tits & Ball
Saturday night provided a good excuse and put the best threads on, have a good time - and support a good cause while we were at it. Todd, Nic and Tarns did a great job organising what was a great night. There were no spare tickets (and that was only after a few days of trying to sell them) and they ended up raising an amazing £3000 for MacMillan Cancer Support (who provide practical support to those aaffectedby cancer) - great effort guys! The event went very smoothly and I didn't see anyone who wasn't having a great time.

And we also got see the debut of DJ Liquid 8 - known to most of us as Toddy. With a lot of nerves and even more concentration, he played three impressive sets, really hitting his straps with his last. Hopefully we are lucky enough to have a repeat of one of these events....

Pub Watch: Schlenkerla (Bamberg, Germany)

Schlenkerla brewpub, so good I had to go twice. Schlenkerla is the brewpub in Bamberg, and it was easy to see why. It has quite a history, apparently first being mentioned in 1405. Right in the centre of the old town, it is multi-roomed with wooden beamed low ceilings (which were apparently given their dark colour from the practice of painting them with Ox blood). On both nights we visited it was a comfortable-packed and is obviously the late night destination. But of course, what this place is really about is their beer....

The Aecht (or Original) Schlenkerla Rauchbier is of course brewed to the German Purity Laws of 1516. However, what makes it very different is the malting process, where the barley is dried by the heat of an open wood fire burning underneath. In contrast, regular malt is kilned by heat, but without smoke. The smoke from this fire penetrates the grain and in turn gives the beer its unique aroma and taste.

And what a aroma and flavour it is! Served straight from the wooden casks, my first whiff I found a bit hard to believe - and is even more difficult to explain (you really need to try it for yourself). However, the fact that we called it "smoky bacon" beer is the most that can really be said - it smelled and tasted like a very strongly smoked ham. And if this sounds weird, it was, but also became very moreish, and by the end of the first pint I was hooked. Luckily there was half of Anna's pint to finish, and there was always the next night....

Bamberg: The beeriest place on Earth

If I had told you about this trip before, then you would know how much I was looking forward to it. Bamberg is a small town on the border of Bavaria and Fraconia, with quaint medieval buildings (it's a UNESCO world heritage site), and of course, it is a beer-lover's paradise.

The trip didn't get away to the best of starts, however. After an early morning walk to the train station in the rain (was one of the wettest weekends in London for a while - got to love it when that happens), we flew into Frankfurt and quickly picked up our car, chomping at the bit to make our way to Bamberg and start the two days of beer "studies" (well, I was). Whipping onto the autobahn we joined the veritable feast of BMWs, Mercedes Benz's, and VWs that make up European roads. Hoping to make quick time of the 200kms to Bamberg, we were pushing our little VW Polo while still being passed going only 140km in the middle lane. But before we start praising the brilliance of German road engineering, we hit Traffic (capital 'T' intended). And bugger me if we could work out what was causing it all at 2pm on a Saturday afternoon. Now I'm a beer nerd, not a car nerd, so soon I was sick of all the Beemers, Merks and VeeDubs, I just wanted to have my first beer of the day in front of me. After many do-we/don't-we moments, we finally decided to get off the autobahn and take an alternative route. Of course Murphy's Law tells me that after that turn-off the traffic probably freed up and we would have been off, but we couldn't take one more seemingly needless dead-halt. But the alternative route was a lot more scenic and some of the little towns we drove through were pretty environmentally impressive (plenty of solar panel roofs and wind turbines). But we eventually got to Bamberg and my first beer, though an hour or so later than originally planned.

It was a beautiful late afternoon, so we wanted to make sure we visited the Kellers (biergartens - or beer gardens for those of you not of a teutonic persuasion) that are on some of the hills overlooking the town. Disappointingly one was closed, but the two that were open - Greifenklau and Spezial - were impressive. And at Spezial I had my first taste of the infamous rauchbier - but more about that later.



After enjoying the pleasant views, we wandered back down through the town (which, with its cobbled and winding streets was very cool) and found ourselves at the Klosterbrau brewpub. The beer here impressed us so much that we ended up staying for a few and having dinner - the first of many fine schnitzels andglutinouss dumplings on the trip.

Full of good beer and good food, there was one more stop we had to make - the Schlenkerla Brewpub to taste their famous rauchbier. Though this pub and beer needs it own special attention, so see the next blog....

After our first (half) day out in Bamberg, a couple of glaring oddities seemed evident to us. Firstly, despite Bamberg obviously being a very touristy town, there seemed to be two things that made us stick out - one, we spoke English; and two, we were under the age of 40. Bamberg is attractive and has cheap food and alcohol (pints were typically under 2 Euros and our meals around 7 Euros) - usually enough to encourage, at the very least, a swarm of young antipodean tourists. Clearly, the Germans are in the know but have done a good job keeping it a secret from the rest of us - and lets hope it stays that way, as it is better off for it. The other thing that stuck out - quite literally - the popularity and size of the middle-aged German beer gut. Dart players and members of the South Manukau Bowling club eat your heart out, the owners of these beer guts are at the top of the game, obviously perfecting the rotundous girth on a lifetime diet of hearty fare and good beer. And admittedly, if I had been able to extend my own visit to these parts, I don't think it would have taken too long to cultivate my own little Bavarian ball of gluten.

Waking up the next morning, a little groggy, though with no hangover (we have the German brewing purity laws to thank for that), the weather was fine and there were more brew pubs to visit. Postponing myself to my first pint at a respective hour (12 noon), we used the morning to wander around the town and climb some the hills for some good views. This only confirmed what we had though the previous evening - how good!

Today's brewpubs were all on the other side of the northern branch of the river that goes through the town, with the first stop at Fassla and then on to Spezial. After lunch at Spezial, we took an enjoyable walk up along the river to a couple more brewpubs a little further out. Unfortunately Keesman was closed, but the Mahrs brewpub was a great little place, all wood-paneled and the beer gravity fed from wooden casks (which most of the brewpubs had). Wandering back into town, we took a enjoyable walk through a forested park alongside the southern branch of the river - more surprises from this great town.

Dinner this night was had at the most modern of the Bamberg brewpubs - Ambrausianum - where the beer probably wasn't of the same quality as the more traditional breweries, but the food was fantastic (and massive - see the pic below). And of course, being out last night in Bamberg, a return to Schlenkerla was a must for another pint or two of their superb rauchbier.

With most of the afternoon available before we needed to be back in Frankfurt for our flight back home, we went for a little drive, though not before a driveby of the Keesman brewpub again just to see if it was open. And I wasn't disappointed, a bunch of old-timers had already bet me to it, but I joined them in having the very good Herren Pils at 11am in the morning. One of the other targets of the day's drive was a visit to the small hamlet of Merkendorf and the Hummel brewpub where I had heard the beers were quite impressive, and after tasting four of them over lunch, I can certainly vouch for that.

Driving back to Frankfurt, we were very pleased with our little trip to this hidden gem (hence the monster blog!). So much so, I was already planning my return visit, though probably hoping to go back the next weekend was a little unreasonable. But I think it would be a fair bet to say I will be back within the next year - hopefully taking some new initiates with me.





For some more pics, click here.