Pub Watch: Schlenkerla (Bamberg, Germany)

Schlenkerla brewpub, so good I had to go twice. Schlenkerla is the brewpub in Bamberg, and it was easy to see why. It has quite a history, apparently first being mentioned in 1405. Right in the centre of the old town, it is multi-roomed with wooden beamed low ceilings (which were apparently given their dark colour from the practice of painting them with Ox blood). On both nights we visited it was a comfortable-packed and is obviously the late night destination. But of course, what this place is really about is their beer....

The Aecht (or Original) Schlenkerla Rauchbier is of course brewed to the German Purity Laws of 1516. However, what makes it very different is the malting process, where the barley is dried by the heat of an open wood fire burning underneath. In contrast, regular malt is kilned by heat, but without smoke. The smoke from this fire penetrates the grain and in turn gives the beer its unique aroma and taste.

And what a aroma and flavour it is! Served straight from the wooden casks, my first whiff I found a bit hard to believe - and is even more difficult to explain (you really need to try it for yourself). However, the fact that we called it "smoky bacon" beer is the most that can really be said - it smelled and tasted like a very strongly smoked ham. And if this sounds weird, it was, but also became very moreish, and by the end of the first pint I was hooked. Luckily there was half of Anna's pint to finish, and there was always the next night....