Part Four – Oop North
Flying back late in Gatwick, we had one of those London experiences we had forgotten about. Making good time out of the plan and picking up our bags, we made it to the train platform 2.5 seconds after the doors of the train closed, only to then find out the next train isn’t for another half an hour. Oh joy.
Though the next day, we experienced the other side, as we caught the train up to Leeds to spend a few days with James & Petra. What would be a painful 4 hour drive in New Zealand is an easy 2 hour trip on the train. That evening we headed into Leeds to visit some cools pubs and have a traditional Yorkshire curry. The curry was good, but not as impressive as the naan, which were massive and served on the end of large hooks. And we only got the normal size - the “family size” was big enough to provide overhead shelter for a small scout group.
The next day the English summer finally caught up with us good and proper – it rained all day. Which put a bit of a damper on our excursion into the Yorkshire Dales. Nevermind, that just meant more pub time and less walking time. This included visiting James & Petra’s wedding venue – The Craven Arms pub, with a medieval barn attached to the rear. The pub also has its own local microbrewery, which is going to brew a special beer for the wedding. It’s enough to make me want to get married there!
The next day we drove up to the Lakes District – via some select pubs of course – to stay our final night with Petra’s parents, who live in an awesome renovated slate house at the end of the very remote Kentmere Valley. It is a classic Lake District valley – apparently it is the setting of Postman Pat – and was a real treat. And Petra’s parent’s place was no typical cottage, her old man is a technie-nerd. There were three TVs in the house, including the Den with its projector screen. We even had our own ensuite room about the garage – it was like staying in a B&B. Not only that, but Petra’s mum treated us to a three-course meal as we did a taste off of the wines James & Petra were trialing for the wedding (Kiwi Sav and Argentinean Red).
The weather improved for our final day up north. Enough for me to go for a run with James around the valley. Hard work for someone who has spent the last 3 weeks drinking and eating his way around the Czech Republic and Croatia. Especially as James is a serious runner, competing in National and European meetings and running 5kms in around 14min20secs. He took it easy on me.
It was an awesome few days catching up with James & Petra – and a shame we didn’t have more time.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Monday, July 27, 2009
Part Three - Becalmed in Croatia
Arriving a bit later than planned – we first had to make our way through the onerous Croatian customs. That was sarcastic by the way…kids we running back and through the custom desks and I don’t think the customs officer actually looked down at my passport. We then made our way to the marina Therapy was berthed at, just north of Dubrovnik.
Unfortunately, our first day was stuck in the marina as the winds were too strong. However, we set out the next day for a sail and to rendezvous with Si & Kellie later that night. However, departing the marina was full of drama. The marina was situated up a long river hemmed in by steep cliffs on both sides. Being in a river, manoeuvring the boat needs to take into account both the river flow as well as the wind. We were in a tight spot and it was tricky work getting ourselves out. It was squeezing out of our berth that we lost control of the boat momentarily and we knocked, of all things, the very expensive looking lacquered speedboat. And the speedboat belonging to the gin palace berthed next to it, which itself had Russian owners, absent at the time. Marty had to head back to purvey the damage with the staff (who had just been polishing the speedboat that morning), but it was so small to be of little consequence. But that didn’t stop us ribbing Marty that it had to be wary of Russian Mafia and concrete gumboots.
We eventually took off to anchor up in one of the many sheltered coves and for the first of many swim and lunches. That night we anchored outside Cavtat, a handy location to the Dubrovnik airport, to pick up Si & Kellie. The next day we headed up North, planning to island hop our way up to Korcula. Si & Kellie quickly made themselves at home – perhaps getting too comfortable. Their pasty white London skin wasn’t quite prepared and for the rest of the week Si wore a permanent white singlet.
Over the next week we had awesome weather. For a couple of hours one afternoon we saw some cloud, but apart from that it was only blue sky in all directions. The only downside was a distinct lack of wind. We got a decent sail a couple of times, but most of the time was spent under motor. But the anchoring spots made it all worth it. Horseshoe bays that were so calm it was sometimes difficult to remember you were on a boat. And crystal clear water, that perfect temperature to be both refreshing and comfortable. So we settled into the rhythm of swim-beer-swim-eat-beer-swim-beer. Si especially took to this and quickly claimed the title of “Sloth”.
Our turnaround point was Korcula – an awesome walled-town (on the island of Korcula) occupying the end of a peninsula. We wandered the tight streets one late afternoon and enjoyed some cocktails at a bar that sat up the top of a turret. There was a ladder to get to the top, and your drinks arrived by a pulley system.
We made our back with more of the same, spotting a couple of dolphins for a change of scene. As Si & Kellie’s last day arrived we had to head into the Dubrovnik marina again, as the non-existent winds turned in a strong gale – a weird symmetry with the start of the week. This was Si & Kellie’s first visit to a marina, as we had anchored every night they had been on the boat. We all headed into Dubrovnik before Si & Kellie’s flight, for a couple of last beers sitting at the bars on the rocks outside Dubrovnik’s walls. For Anna and I, the next day was our last as well. Just enough time to head out for one last swim-eat-beer before catching out flight back to London.
Being on a boat in Croatia was a much different experience to Southern France. The lack of sailing weather is noticeable, but this is more than offset by the awesome anchoring spots that make marinas hardly necessary. It was a very relaxing 10 days – something we probably needed after our last week in London rather than before. But more of that to come…
Arriving a bit later than planned – we first had to make our way through the onerous Croatian customs. That was sarcastic by the way…kids we running back and through the custom desks and I don’t think the customs officer actually looked down at my passport. We then made our way to the marina Therapy was berthed at, just north of Dubrovnik.
Unfortunately, our first day was stuck in the marina as the winds were too strong. However, we set out the next day for a sail and to rendezvous with Si & Kellie later that night. However, departing the marina was full of drama. The marina was situated up a long river hemmed in by steep cliffs on both sides. Being in a river, manoeuvring the boat needs to take into account both the river flow as well as the wind. We were in a tight spot and it was tricky work getting ourselves out. It was squeezing out of our berth that we lost control of the boat momentarily and we knocked, of all things, the very expensive looking lacquered speedboat. And the speedboat belonging to the gin palace berthed next to it, which itself had Russian owners, absent at the time. Marty had to head back to purvey the damage with the staff (who had just been polishing the speedboat that morning), but it was so small to be of little consequence. But that didn’t stop us ribbing Marty that it had to be wary of Russian Mafia and concrete gumboots.
We eventually took off to anchor up in one of the many sheltered coves and for the first of many swim and lunches. That night we anchored outside Cavtat, a handy location to the Dubrovnik airport, to pick up Si & Kellie. The next day we headed up North, planning to island hop our way up to Korcula. Si & Kellie quickly made themselves at home – perhaps getting too comfortable. Their pasty white London skin wasn’t quite prepared and for the rest of the week Si wore a permanent white singlet.
Over the next week we had awesome weather. For a couple of hours one afternoon we saw some cloud, but apart from that it was only blue sky in all directions. The only downside was a distinct lack of wind. We got a decent sail a couple of times, but most of the time was spent under motor. But the anchoring spots made it all worth it. Horseshoe bays that were so calm it was sometimes difficult to remember you were on a boat. And crystal clear water, that perfect temperature to be both refreshing and comfortable. So we settled into the rhythm of swim-beer-swim-eat-beer-swim-beer. Si especially took to this and quickly claimed the title of “Sloth”.
Our turnaround point was Korcula – an awesome walled-town (on the island of Korcula) occupying the end of a peninsula. We wandered the tight streets one late afternoon and enjoyed some cocktails at a bar that sat up the top of a turret. There was a ladder to get to the top, and your drinks arrived by a pulley system.
We made our back with more of the same, spotting a couple of dolphins for a change of scene. As Si & Kellie’s last day arrived we had to head into the Dubrovnik marina again, as the non-existent winds turned in a strong gale – a weird symmetry with the start of the week. This was Si & Kellie’s first visit to a marina, as we had anchored every night they had been on the boat. We all headed into Dubrovnik before Si & Kellie’s flight, for a couple of last beers sitting at the bars on the rocks outside Dubrovnik’s walls. For Anna and I, the next day was our last as well. Just enough time to head out for one last swim-eat-beer before catching out flight back to London.
Being on a boat in Croatia was a much different experience to Southern France. The lack of sailing weather is noticeable, but this is more than offset by the awesome anchoring spots that make marinas hardly necessary. It was a very relaxing 10 days – something we probably needed after our last week in London rather than before. But more of that to come…
Friday, July 17, 2009
Part Two – Czech’ing it out
Though we flew into Prague Airport, that was as close as we got, as we had already been to Prague many years ago. This trip was about touring a bit of the Czech countryside and, surprise surprise, visit some fine Czech Breweries with the Good Beer Guide: Czech Republic in hand.
It was certainly an interesting trip. Straight away it was clear it was a strange country, where you are offered a choice between a Mercedes-Benz and a Ford Focus as your rental car – pretty easy choice that! And the roads themselves were very interesting. There seems to two trucks to every car on the road, the result being that the roads themselves are in pretty bad shape. The right-hand lanes of the motorways seem to be one endless series of potholes.
The Czech drivers themselves seem to be of two breeds. One breed seems to be perfectly comfortable driving 60km in a 90km zone. The other seems so concerned to check that their steering is working, they have to change lanes or overtake every 2 seconds, and seem intent on reading the maker’s name on the screws that are holding your license plate to the bumper!
But out in the countryside it is very scenic, with bright green rolling hills studded by attractive little towns (that’s where there isn’t some hulk of a Communist concrete block towering above them). The Czech countryside reminded me of how intensive livestock farming and forestry have ruined much of NZ’s countryside. The Czech people seem to take advantage of this as well – with plenty of hikers and cyclists about. Though this is in sharp contract with the rest of their lifestyle – which involves a lot of smoking (especially in pubs and restaurants, which is difficult getting used to again) and not what you would call the healthiest of cuisine’s. Stodge, stodge and more stodge. I love a dumpling as much as the next man, but after 5 days of them it was admittedly getting a bit tough. Not that it seems to be slowing down reproduction, there seemed to be newborn babies everywhere.
And there is also lots of water. Every town seems to have to have a pond or lake of some description – most of them dammed. You wouldn’t swim in them though. Perhaps they are used to farm Carp, which is on the menu everywhere, but has to be the top nomination for the most flavourless fish around.
So our first destination was Telc in South Moravia – a beautiful Renaissance town that was probably the pick of our trip. We had a room overlooking the town square and I got my first taste of some good Czech beer (Bernard) – though what stunned me more than anything was the price, about $1.80 for a pint!
The next day we criss-crossed our way across southern Czech Republic, arriving at Ceske Budejovice for lunch and the famous Budejovicky Budvar – famous for being the original “Budweiser”. I was able to sample two of their beers that are not as commonly available – the krouzkovany lezak (which is “yeast beer”, where a dose of young beer – fresh yeast and wort – is added after lagering), and the svetle vycepni (which is a lighter version of their Premium beer).
After lunch we drove through South Bohemia up to our destination of Plzen (we skipped the awesome Ceske Krumlov, as once again we visited it on a previous trip), stopping by at a couple of breweries, and though their beers were OK, not worth a special mention. Plzen itself is nice enough (it is a big student city), but the main reason it was our destination was because it is home to Pilsner Urquell Brewery, and also the opportunity to taste their amazing kvasnicovy (yeast beer again). The citrus sweetness combined with the yeasty dryness to make it very moreish.
After walking around the grounds of Pilsner Urquell Brewery the next morning, we made our way out to the small town of Dobrany just outside Plzen to lunch at the Modra Hvezda brewpub. This was a real find, as we sat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed one of our better meals on our trip. They had a range of four different beers on tap, and I couldn’t find too many faults with any of them, the tmavy (dark lager) and a stronger bock particularly good. Anna also had her first taste of what we saw a lot of people drinking – Birell, a 0% alcohol beer. The Czech Republic is a zero alcohol level for driving, and these Czechs enjoy their beer so much (they have the highest beer consumption per person in the world), they knock back this 0% beer in large amounts. I guess is was OK for what it was – but I was happy that Anna was doing the driving...
From Dobrany we were just making the relatively short trip to Chodova to the brewery/hotel/restaurant/spa, where we were both staying and taking in a massage and beer bath. Yes, that’s right, a beer bath! In a warm, brick-lined cellar, a steel tub-for-two was filled with a 50:50 mix of mineral water and a specially brewed low-alcohol bathing beer, at a temperature of 34 degrees. Admittedly it was a bit weird. The water was pretty murky and full of little bits, which I am assuming is some of the mash. But it was hard not to enjoy when you just sit back and get passed glasses of a light Chodovar lager. But then things got weirder…
After 30 minutes we were ushered out of the bath – the woman didn’t seem fussed that we were naked – and led to another even warmer room where we were swaddled with blankets and told to lie down on a chaise-lounge. It didn’t take long to get a big sweat on – and I guess that is the point, a bit like a poor man’s sauna – in the midst of the sweet malt and spicy hop aroma rising from your skin. It was difficult to decide whether to relax or laugh.
After that experience, later that night we ate at the Chodovar restaurant, which is set within lagering caves from the 12th century. While the setting was cool, our fellow diners were not. It seemed that a couple of busloads of pushy German tourists had also turned up without reservations and intent on squeezing in on our table. Even Anna’s evil-eye didn’t seem to work on them.
The next day we drove around the northwest Bohemia, famous for its spa towns. They are bizarre affairs, very opulent, but now also very touristy. The towns were made popular because of their mineral waters, which people were prescribed for various ailments. Now it seems tourists buy the ridiculous porcelain mugs things and drink the sulphury tasting water, the irony of also smoking a cigarette lost on many of them. We could only take so much of these spa towns, so decided to pop over the border into Germany for lunch – Bavaria no less, so it would have definitely been rude not to – and found the very nice town of Waldsassen. I relief at eating a meal not involving goulash or dumplings could probably be heard back in the Czech Republic as we enjoyed schnitzel (of course) and venison, as well as a couple of local brews, including a delicious Hefeweizen.
Back across the border and we only had a short trip to Loket – where we would be spending our last night. This fairy-tale town, perched on a mountain ridge with a river that serpentines it way around it on three sides, is also known for featuring in Casino Royale. We stayed at the brewpub/hotel, where their one beer was one of the best of the trip.
Our last day brought something new on this trip – rain. Until then, we had had beautifully warm and sunny days. Driving back towards the airport and with time to peruse the Good Beer Guide, I found one last brewpub that I wanted to visit – and it was only 15 minutes from the airport. And what a great call that was, as it had the best beers of the trip. The Chyne beers were absolutely stunning, my favourite was their cerny (dark lager), but the potomavy (half-dark) and svetle (light) were equally good. It was with much regret that I had to pull myself away – and even more so when we got to the airport, only to discover that our flight had been delayed for three hours.
It was a very enjoyable 5 days in the Czech Republic. There might not have been the wow factor, but a very enjoyable place to travel around. It was only the cuisine that we tired of; you can only take so much stodge – even me. And on the beer front there were some real finds. Though not typically beer styles I warm to, when they are brewed with such skill as were on offer here, it is hard not to be impressed by the bittersweet qualities of the variety of Czech lagers. A fine education for a Yeastie Boy.
Though we flew into Prague Airport, that was as close as we got, as we had already been to Prague many years ago. This trip was about touring a bit of the Czech countryside and, surprise surprise, visit some fine Czech Breweries with the Good Beer Guide: Czech Republic in hand.
It was certainly an interesting trip. Straight away it was clear it was a strange country, where you are offered a choice between a Mercedes-Benz and a Ford Focus as your rental car – pretty easy choice that! And the roads themselves were very interesting. There seems to two trucks to every car on the road, the result being that the roads themselves are in pretty bad shape. The right-hand lanes of the motorways seem to be one endless series of potholes.
The Czech drivers themselves seem to be of two breeds. One breed seems to be perfectly comfortable driving 60km in a 90km zone. The other seems so concerned to check that their steering is working, they have to change lanes or overtake every 2 seconds, and seem intent on reading the maker’s name on the screws that are holding your license plate to the bumper!
But out in the countryside it is very scenic, with bright green rolling hills studded by attractive little towns (that’s where there isn’t some hulk of a Communist concrete block towering above them). The Czech countryside reminded me of how intensive livestock farming and forestry have ruined much of NZ’s countryside. The Czech people seem to take advantage of this as well – with plenty of hikers and cyclists about. Though this is in sharp contract with the rest of their lifestyle – which involves a lot of smoking (especially in pubs and restaurants, which is difficult getting used to again) and not what you would call the healthiest of cuisine’s. Stodge, stodge and more stodge. I love a dumpling as much as the next man, but after 5 days of them it was admittedly getting a bit tough. Not that it seems to be slowing down reproduction, there seemed to be newborn babies everywhere.
And there is also lots of water. Every town seems to have to have a pond or lake of some description – most of them dammed. You wouldn’t swim in them though. Perhaps they are used to farm Carp, which is on the menu everywhere, but has to be the top nomination for the most flavourless fish around.
So our first destination was Telc in South Moravia – a beautiful Renaissance town that was probably the pick of our trip. We had a room overlooking the town square and I got my first taste of some good Czech beer (Bernard) – though what stunned me more than anything was the price, about $1.80 for a pint!
The next day we criss-crossed our way across southern Czech Republic, arriving at Ceske Budejovice for lunch and the famous Budejovicky Budvar – famous for being the original “Budweiser”. I was able to sample two of their beers that are not as commonly available – the krouzkovany lezak (which is “yeast beer”, where a dose of young beer – fresh yeast and wort – is added after lagering), and the svetle vycepni (which is a lighter version of their Premium beer).
After lunch we drove through South Bohemia up to our destination of Plzen (we skipped the awesome Ceske Krumlov, as once again we visited it on a previous trip), stopping by at a couple of breweries, and though their beers were OK, not worth a special mention. Plzen itself is nice enough (it is a big student city), but the main reason it was our destination was because it is home to Pilsner Urquell Brewery, and also the opportunity to taste their amazing kvasnicovy (yeast beer again). The citrus sweetness combined with the yeasty dryness to make it very moreish.
After walking around the grounds of Pilsner Urquell Brewery the next morning, we made our way out to the small town of Dobrany just outside Plzen to lunch at the Modra Hvezda brewpub. This was a real find, as we sat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed one of our better meals on our trip. They had a range of four different beers on tap, and I couldn’t find too many faults with any of them, the tmavy (dark lager) and a stronger bock particularly good. Anna also had her first taste of what we saw a lot of people drinking – Birell, a 0% alcohol beer. The Czech Republic is a zero alcohol level for driving, and these Czechs enjoy their beer so much (they have the highest beer consumption per person in the world), they knock back this 0% beer in large amounts. I guess is was OK for what it was – but I was happy that Anna was doing the driving...
From Dobrany we were just making the relatively short trip to Chodova to the brewery/hotel/restaurant/spa, where we were both staying and taking in a massage and beer bath. Yes, that’s right, a beer bath! In a warm, brick-lined cellar, a steel tub-for-two was filled with a 50:50 mix of mineral water and a specially brewed low-alcohol bathing beer, at a temperature of 34 degrees. Admittedly it was a bit weird. The water was pretty murky and full of little bits, which I am assuming is some of the mash. But it was hard not to enjoy when you just sit back and get passed glasses of a light Chodovar lager. But then things got weirder…
After 30 minutes we were ushered out of the bath – the woman didn’t seem fussed that we were naked – and led to another even warmer room where we were swaddled with blankets and told to lie down on a chaise-lounge. It didn’t take long to get a big sweat on – and I guess that is the point, a bit like a poor man’s sauna – in the midst of the sweet malt and spicy hop aroma rising from your skin. It was difficult to decide whether to relax or laugh.
After that experience, later that night we ate at the Chodovar restaurant, which is set within lagering caves from the 12th century. While the setting was cool, our fellow diners were not. It seemed that a couple of busloads of pushy German tourists had also turned up without reservations and intent on squeezing in on our table. Even Anna’s evil-eye didn’t seem to work on them.
The next day we drove around the northwest Bohemia, famous for its spa towns. They are bizarre affairs, very opulent, but now also very touristy. The towns were made popular because of their mineral waters, which people were prescribed for various ailments. Now it seems tourists buy the ridiculous porcelain mugs things and drink the sulphury tasting water, the irony of also smoking a cigarette lost on many of them. We could only take so much of these spa towns, so decided to pop over the border into Germany for lunch – Bavaria no less, so it would have definitely been rude not to – and found the very nice town of Waldsassen. I relief at eating a meal not involving goulash or dumplings could probably be heard back in the Czech Republic as we enjoyed schnitzel (of course) and venison, as well as a couple of local brews, including a delicious Hefeweizen.
Back across the border and we only had a short trip to Loket – where we would be spending our last night. This fairy-tale town, perched on a mountain ridge with a river that serpentines it way around it on three sides, is also known for featuring in Casino Royale. We stayed at the brewpub/hotel, where their one beer was one of the best of the trip.
Our last day brought something new on this trip – rain. Until then, we had had beautifully warm and sunny days. Driving back towards the airport and with time to peruse the Good Beer Guide, I found one last brewpub that I wanted to visit – and it was only 15 minutes from the airport. And what a great call that was, as it had the best beers of the trip. The Chyne beers were absolutely stunning, my favourite was their cerny (dark lager), but the potomavy (half-dark) and svetle (light) were equally good. It was with much regret that I had to pull myself away – and even more so when we got to the airport, only to discover that our flight had been delayed for three hours.
It was a very enjoyable 5 days in the Czech Republic. There might not have been the wow factor, but a very enjoyable place to travel around. It was only the cuisine that we tired of; you can only take so much stodge – even me. And on the beer front there were some real finds. Though not typically beer styles I warm to, when they are brewed with such skill as were on offer here, it is hard not to be impressed by the bittersweet qualities of the variety of Czech lagers. A fine education for a Yeastie Boy.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Part One – London’s Calling
Woohoo, a month away. Surely the best way to use a year’s worth of annual leave. Though of course it starts with the dreaded long haul all the way to Heathrow. And on the first leg it seemed it was going so well.
We were on one of the new Air NZ planes to San Francisco. They definitely have more legroom, and the seats seem that little bit wider. And in what seemed like a full flight, we also seemed be fortunate enough to have the one spare seat next to us. Of course, we should have known that this would balance out somewhere else…
We had a four-hour stop over in San Francisco. Not enough time to head into the city, but just enough to track down the Anchor Brewery Bar and have their very good brews. So despite getting no sleep on the first leg, I was feeling good about the second leg to London. That was until we boarded our Virgin Atlantic flight. It had the old style seats, which we had forgotten how little they “recline”, staffed by what seemed a select sample of the Chav population out of Essex. And then…my personal entertainment system didn’t work. And with the flight completely full, I couldn’t move anywhere else, and the staff didn’t seemed to care anyway. So I had to go the whole sleepless 12 hours to London with nothing to do.
Of course, at least I had the treats of London awaiting us. Deb meet us at the airport and from there it was back onto the tube (with my old Oyster card which still had money on it!) and into Putney. After a couple of groggy showers, down we headed to The Bricklayers Arms to meet up with all the crew. The Bricklayers was still as good as I remembered it, all the Timothy Taylors range, plus a couple of additional handpulls they have installed for more guests. But I only had eyes for the Dark Mild – and it wasn’t disappointing.
It only took a few pints to throw off the grogginess and it was like old times again in London. Later on we wandered down the road to another old haunt – Putney Tandoori – where I was greeted like a long lost son (though the stroking of my hair seemed a little weird!). Somehow Anna and I found ourselves back at Todd & Nic’s, going strong until 1.30am when we finally thought we should try and get some sleep (I had gone some 60 hours without any by then) – and sleep we did.
Sunday was meant to be a lazy afternoon up at The Telegraph – a pub up in Putney Heath that had been the talk of the town ever since I left. It calls itself a “country pub in London”, and that is a pretty accurate description. I’m not sure how it happened, but next thing I know it is 11pm and I am only just leaving the Coat and Badge after an all day Sunday session. Not a bad start of the holiday!
We only had one more day before we flew out to the Czech Republic, so we dragged everyone out again for a drink after work before Anna and I went out to dinner with Deb and Carl to Gordon Ramsey’s Murano. For those of you who know (or care) about these things, Murano is headed by Gordon Ramsey’s protégé Angela Hartnett. I think this is the third time we have eaten at a Gordon Ramsey restaurant, and it didn’t disappoint, either the palate or the wallet. At £215, it’s not cheap, especially in NZ dollars, where it converts to $lots!
It had been a great first weekend in London to kick the holiday off – though didn’t help to shrug off the affects of jetlag – and it was great catching up with everyone. Next stop, the Pilsners of the Czech Republic…
Woohoo, a month away. Surely the best way to use a year’s worth of annual leave. Though of course it starts with the dreaded long haul all the way to Heathrow. And on the first leg it seemed it was going so well.
We were on one of the new Air NZ planes to San Francisco. They definitely have more legroom, and the seats seem that little bit wider. And in what seemed like a full flight, we also seemed be fortunate enough to have the one spare seat next to us. Of course, we should have known that this would balance out somewhere else…
We had a four-hour stop over in San Francisco. Not enough time to head into the city, but just enough to track down the Anchor Brewery Bar and have their very good brews. So despite getting no sleep on the first leg, I was feeling good about the second leg to London. That was until we boarded our Virgin Atlantic flight. It had the old style seats, which we had forgotten how little they “recline”, staffed by what seemed a select sample of the Chav population out of Essex. And then…my personal entertainment system didn’t work. And with the flight completely full, I couldn’t move anywhere else, and the staff didn’t seemed to care anyway. So I had to go the whole sleepless 12 hours to London with nothing to do.
Of course, at least I had the treats of London awaiting us. Deb meet us at the airport and from there it was back onto the tube (with my old Oyster card which still had money on it!) and into Putney. After a couple of groggy showers, down we headed to The Bricklayers Arms to meet up with all the crew. The Bricklayers was still as good as I remembered it, all the Timothy Taylors range, plus a couple of additional handpulls they have installed for more guests. But I only had eyes for the Dark Mild – and it wasn’t disappointing.
It only took a few pints to throw off the grogginess and it was like old times again in London. Later on we wandered down the road to another old haunt – Putney Tandoori – where I was greeted like a long lost son (though the stroking of my hair seemed a little weird!). Somehow Anna and I found ourselves back at Todd & Nic’s, going strong until 1.30am when we finally thought we should try and get some sleep (I had gone some 60 hours without any by then) – and sleep we did.
Sunday was meant to be a lazy afternoon up at The Telegraph – a pub up in Putney Heath that had been the talk of the town ever since I left. It calls itself a “country pub in London”, and that is a pretty accurate description. I’m not sure how it happened, but next thing I know it is 11pm and I am only just leaving the Coat and Badge after an all day Sunday session. Not a bad start of the holiday!
We only had one more day before we flew out to the Czech Republic, so we dragged everyone out again for a drink after work before Anna and I went out to dinner with Deb and Carl to Gordon Ramsey’s Murano. For those of you who know (or care) about these things, Murano is headed by Gordon Ramsey’s protégé Angela Hartnett. I think this is the third time we have eaten at a Gordon Ramsey restaurant, and it didn’t disappoint, either the palate or the wallet. At £215, it’s not cheap, especially in NZ dollars, where it converts to $lots!It had been a great first weekend in London to kick the holiday off – though didn’t help to shrug off the affects of jetlag – and it was great catching up with everyone. Next stop, the Pilsners of the Czech Republic…
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