Part Three - Becalmed in Croatia

Arriving a bit later than planned – we first had to make our way through the onerous Croatian customs. That was sarcastic by the way…kids we running back and through the custom desks and I don’t think the customs officer actually looked down at my passport. We then made our way to the marina Therapy was berthed at, just north of Dubrovnik.

Unfortunately, our first day was stuck in the marina as the winds were too strong. However, we set out the next day for a sail and to rendezvous with Si & Kellie later that night. However, departing the marina was full of drama. The marina was situated up a long river hemmed in by steep cliffs on both sides. Being in a river, manoeuvring the boat needs to take into account both the river flow as well as the wind. We were in a tight spot and it was tricky work getting ourselves out. It was squeezing out of our berth that we lost control of the boat momentarily and we knocked, of all things, the very expensive looking lacquered speedboat. And the speedboat belonging to the gin palace berthed next to it, which itself had Russian owners, absent at the time. Marty had to head back to purvey the damage with the staff (who had just been polishing the speedboat that morning), but it was so small to be of little consequence. But that didn’t stop us ribbing Marty that it had to be wary of Russian Mafia and concrete gumboots.

We eventually took off to anchor up in one of the many sheltered coves and for the first of many swim and lunches. That night we anchored outside Cavtat, a handy location to the Dubrovnik airport, to pick up Si & Kellie. The next day we headed up North, planning to island hop our way up to Korcula. Si & Kellie quickly made themselves at home – perhaps getting too comfortable. Their pasty white London skin wasn’t quite prepared and for the rest of the week Si wore a permanent white singlet.

Over the next week we had awesome weather. For a couple of hours one afternoon we saw some cloud, but apart from that it was only blue sky in all directions. The only downside was a distinct lack of wind. We got a decent sail a couple of times, but most of the time was spent under motor. But the anchoring spots made it all worth it. Horseshoe bays that were so calm it was sometimes difficult to remember you were on a boat. And crystal clear water, that perfect temperature to be both refreshing and comfortable. So we settled into the rhythm of swim-beer-swim-eat-beer-swim-beer. Si especially took to this and quickly claimed the title of “Sloth”.

Our turnaround point was Korcula – an awesome walled-town (on the island of Korcula) occupying the end of a peninsula. We wandered the tight streets one late afternoon and enjoyed some cocktails at a bar that sat up the top of a turret. There was a ladder to get to the top, and your drinks arrived by a pulley system.

We made our back with more of the same, spotting a couple of dolphins for a change of scene. As Si & Kellie’s last day arrived we had to head into the Dubrovnik marina again, as the non-existent winds turned in a strong gale – a weird symmetry with the start of the week. This was Si & Kellie’s first visit to a marina, as we had anchored every night they had been on the boat. We all headed into Dubrovnik before Si & Kellie’s flight, for a couple of last beers sitting at the bars on the rocks outside Dubrovnik’s walls. For Anna and I, the next day was our last as well. Just enough time to head out for one last swim-eat-beer before catching out flight back to London.

Being on a boat in Croatia was a much different experience to Southern France. The lack of sailing weather is noticeable, but this is more than offset by the awesome anchoring spots that make marinas hardly necessary. It was a very relaxing 10 days – something we probably needed after our last week in London rather than before. But more of that to come…