The South America Chronicles - Once

On Monday we picked up our little car - and as it was a VW Polo (called "Gol" over here), it sure was little - and drove off into the north-west Argentinean countryside. We saw some stunning scenery over the newxt three days, but as most of the roads were mostly gravel and/or sand, our little car sure took a beating.

Our first destination was the small town of Cachi, but not before a demanding drive through some stunning scenery. We had to climb nearly 2000m to get over a pass before descending again to Cachi. The drive took us up through a bizarre mountainous landscape, one that I couldn´t decide whether it was more Grand Canyon or more Scottish Glen. A valley of dark wood topped by evergreen leaves gave way to red rock and cacti, which then gave way to towering black rock and tussock-like grass. When we finally made it over the pass, we then had to drive through the "Devil´s Amphitheatre", a 12km dead straight road through a valley full of cacti (the closest thing I think you could ever get to a ´cacti forest´).

Arriving at Cachi, we were greeted by a cute little town with plastered houses and cobblestone streets. Though we got a bit of a shock when most of the accomodation appeared to be either full or had tripled in price since last year´s guidebook. We did eventually find ourselves a place to stay and spent a relaxing evening around the town. This included what must be the best pasta meal either of us have ever eaten (and that includes Italy). We wouldn´t have even found the small restaurant if we hadn´t stayed down the small street where we had finally found accomodation. Walking past it though, we were instantly attracted to the good smells coming from within and just had to investigate. It was just a one room establishment, including the kitchen on one side. It only had pasta and salad on the menu, and even then you only had four choices of different filled pasta and four different sauces ("salsas"), but we were in for a real treat. Upon ordering, from where we sat, we could watch the husband and wife team start from making the pasta, filling it, and then cooking the sauce to accompany it. Though that was reality cooking. And it was delicious! As I said, the best pasta meal I have ever had.

The next day we were driving down to the Cafayate region where we were treating ourselves to a couple of nights at a small winery - La Casa de la Bodega. The drive was again spectacular, following along a river valley, which was the only source of green all around us, with surrounding bare hills set in a deep red of brown against a clear blue sky. As we got closer to Cafayate we passed through some very perculiar rock formations. Huge slabs of pink-grey rock rising out of the sandy ground like missiles or spaceships about to take off. It was an eerie landscape and amazing that they had put a road through there at all. Arriving at our winery retreat, we took a `refreshing` dip in the pool (it was damn cold) before settling in for a relaxing night of drinks and dinner.

The next morning we had a tour of the winery along with tastings of their wine. Setting off with the other (5) guests around the vineyard it seemed that this was to be a Spanish-only tour. Too embaressed to admit our woeful lack of Spanish though, we hung at the back and tried to discern what we may. It was only on our way into the winery itself that we plucked up the courage to ask the Vinter if he had any English. He didn´t, but another of the guests, obviously having not been fooled by our stupid nods and grins over the past half an hour, said that she could translate for us. It was then that we found out quite a bit about the winery. It is very small (they put the labels on their bottles by hand), only producing about 60000 litres a year, and the unique climate of the area - the wind and altitude means that there is nearly zero humidity - means that it doesn´t have any problems with bacteria, etc and have allowed it to be organic (though it is still awaiting certified status - you have to wait five years). And their wines? Very nice. They only produce three - two reds, Malbec and Malbec Cabernet; and a Torrontes, a white wine only grown and made in this region, with a very fruity nose, but dry like a Sauvignon Blanc (and much to our liking). Armed with our new found (and hard fought) knowledge of the local wines, we drove about the rest of the region visiting some of the other wineries. Not finding any other wines that bettered those at our own little winery (though a couple had some fabulous views over the valley), we decided to stay-in for the night and enjoy some more of the Torrontes. It turned out to be a strange night, we being the only guests that night and having the run of the house. Ironically, and fortunately not prophetic, ´The Shining´was on TV that night - we managed to survive the night without any sign of mass murderers and departed the next morning to return to Salta.

It was a most welcome sealed road back to Salta to finish the loop and we made it back in good time. Brining the car back to the rental company, we had a small problem with a broken hub-cap, but it wasn´t expensive and can be forgiven for all we put that little car through (apparently, they often get lots more damage on that route). A quick return to the medical clinic and my last test result confirmed that there isn´t anything obviously wrong with me, and admittedly I am feeling OK again. Just as long as it stays that way now! We had just enough time to drop in to our favourite little empanada place - they´re are so good, just like little pastry pies - before we had to get on our bus to Buesnos Aires. It was a shame to leave Salta behind as we really liked the city. One of those manageable cities that you can imagine yourself living in.

Did I mention that we were travelling to Buenos Aires in style - the Suite Premium bus. This thing was the mac-daddy. In a huge two-story bus there must have been only 20 seats for passengers - you have this huge room to stretch out your seat to make a fold-out bed. We had a hostess that served us, we saw three new release movies, had a ´hot´ dinner (this is quite a treat, trust me) with bottled wine, and then had a night-cap choice of whiskey, tia maria or champagne (I´m quite thankful I went for the tia maria than the whiskey, as she was giving out half-pint sized pours). And the sleep? Well, it is not as good as a real bed, but it sure beats trying to sleep in a seat that only reclines a few degrees, and the few hours I did get were more than I would get in a normal bus trip (or flight for that matter). Now we are just hoping that the same service is available on our other long bus trips.

So arriving in Buenos Aires 18 hours later, not quite refreshed, but at least alive and kicking, we were somewhat disappointed to be greeted by rain. I think I could count on one hand the number of hours (let alone days) that it has rained so far on this trip, so rain always comes as a bit of a shock. Though I guess it is spring here and we should expect a bit more of it as we head south and keep to the coast. But it still feels like we are being a little cheated. So we haven´t got up to too much on our first day here, just wandering around and trying to get our bearings. The good news though is that we have managed to get tickets to the football tomorrow afternoon, a World Cup qualifier between Argentina and Chile. It is not a club game unfortunately (I really wanted to see either Boca Juniors or River Plate), but this should also be good and apparently their were huge queues yesterday for tickets (thanks to James & Petra, who we met in Salta, for picking us up some tickets!). So hopefully Argentina can make it a one-two with the football on Saturday and the rugby on Sunday, it should help to make a party atmosphere in the city on this long weekend (Monday is a South American public holiday celebrating Columbus discovering the Americas). I might be reporting on a few hangovers later in the week....