The South America Chronicles - Catorce

The last time I left you I think I was about to be jumping on a bus - Suite Premium again, of course - to San Martin in the Argentinean Lake District. The bus trip went pretty quickly, probably due to the fact that we didn't get any sleep the night before. There wasn't much to see out the bus, the countryside outside of Buenos Aires is incredibly flat, the only features on the landscape being that of a bovine characteristic - but I guess all that steak has to come from somewhere.

So after the 20 hour journey, we were very pleased to see a couple of familiar faces waiting for us at the bus terminal - James & Petra of Salta and Buenos Aires fame. This was of most use to Anna, as it meant she didn't have to carry her manhole-cover to the hostel by herself. San Martin is a quaint little town, seemingly more suited to the Swiss Alps than South American. All log cabins and A-frames, it was a big change from the environments we have been in up to now.

We only stayed at San Martin for two nights, but it felt much longer. The first night, the four of us teamed up with another Aussie couple at out hostel to cook our own BBQ, a nice change from going out all the time. Unfortunately, two Antipodeans and an Englishman were no match for an Argentinean woman as we had to take notes on our to prepare a traditional Parilla. Loss of masculinity aside, we still enjoyed some damn good steak and sausage, and of course the necessary red wine.

The next day we hired a car with James & Petra and went fro a drive out to one of the National Parks. It all started well, it being another stunningly sunny day, driving out into some of the most beautiful scenery I have ever witnessed. Incredibly blue lakes surrounded by mountains capped with pure white snow - all so pristine. After a good picnic lakeside, we continued on towards an extinct volcano further along. Anna had been driving up to this point, but now passed the reins onto James. We all laughed when he said he hadn't driven for six months, and everything seemed to be going along fine until a large rock jumped out and bit the front-right tyre of the car - hard to believe I know. The result of this calamity saw us having to change the tyre as the wheel now had a significant dent in it. Nerves a little bit frayed, we enjoyed the rest of the day, though somewhat concerned about what this might add up to. Though fortunately, we needn't be so concerned as the rental guy was really good and the replacement wheel only cost US$50 - a good result considering. Of course, this was cause for much celebration, dining on some local specialities and some local ales.

After our two nights at San Martin, we all traveled down to Bariloche, much more touristy, but the hub of the Argentinean Lake District. Though the town doesn't have the charm of San Martin, it is stunningly set and literally took our breath away when we arrived. The next day was again clear and sunny, and after walking up a nearby hill for some great views, we hired some bikes to ride around the Llau Llau Peninsula. Again we were just amazed by the sheer beauty of the area. After enjoying another great picnic lakeside, we must have tempted fate too much by slapping on the heavy suncream, as no soon as we had set off that out of no where the clear blue sky had been replaced by thick cloud. Fortunately, by the time the worst had set in, we were able to shelter ourselves under the veranda of a roadside kiosk. After about an hour of should we - shouldn't we, we finally gave in and called the bike rental and they rescued us from the freezing rain that had now set in. A shame, but we had still enjoyed the day we were able to get in.

Anna and I had already decided to extend our stay in Bariloche by a couple more nights, so we were hoping that this turn of weather would be brief. Unfortunately, waking up the next morning the rain was heavier and the temperatures even cooler. But fortunately, I had a back up plan. The Lake District of Argentina is blessed with a plethora of craft breweries, and I had spied a couple right next to each other the previous day. So what better option for a rainy day than sit yourself in a couple of brewpubs sampling their wares? The rain persisted, and so did the drinking, and the four of us made the most of a pretty rotten day.

We had already decided that whatever the weather, the next day we would head out and try to accomplish something. We were hoping to do a day trek, but at the very least go for a drive. Unfortunately the weather didn't dawn any better today either. However, we had organised the hire car and drove off down towards another of the National Parks. Again we passed some beautifully set lakes, which we knew were surrounded by mountains, if we could just seem them! After stopping for a picnic lunch, forced inside the car, we had given up on the trek idea by still drove up to the 'Black Glacier' - called so because the top layer of ice is covered with rock and silt. It was very impressive, looking like the glacier was in fact rock rather than ice. Also while we were there, a huge boulder the size of a house decided to detach itself from the mountain side and rolled its way into the lake in front of the glacier. It started with a huge crack and moved with a roar, and must have been a one-in-a-million chance to see. The glacier itself actually made the day and let us forget about the weather, but then we were lucky enough for it to start clearing up, and all the mountains and volcanoes that we unwittingly drove through earlier in the morning were now exposed to us. As I said, just incredible scenery.

So tonight we had to say farewell to James & Petra tonight, great travelling companions over the past couple of weeks - though it isn't long until we will see them again in Auckland when they pass through. After careful consultation of the forecast for tomorrow, we have booked a very expensive tour which takes us through to Chile. It is a bus-boat-bus-boat-bus-boat-bus trip, taking us through some of the most spectacular and difficult to reach scenery in the whole of the Lake District. If the weather is good, it should be amazing. If the weather is bad, we will be very upset. I'm hoping I will have some positive news for you in my next update.